Elephant Love



Feb 20
We seem to go non-stop. This is an amazing vacation but not relaxing! India is not for the faint of heart. Today we visit an incredible fort that was the home of a rajasthani’s harem. It’s a nice 15 minute walk to the top that winds up the side of a mountain. There is also the option of taking an elephant ride to the top. Several of the group want to ride an elephant. I am completely opposed to it. The elephants are treated inhumanely and live in wretched conditions. Its so sad. Today it depresses me. They are beautiful sensitive creatures who belong in the jungle. There is nothing I can do except voice my opinion to a few people and not take a ride myself. My heart hurts. It turns out that there was an altercation between a tourist and an elephant just prior robots arrival, so the elephants were ‘put away’ for a few hours. None of our group has an opportunity to tide anyway. But the elephants are back in business before we depart. Gee wizzz. No breaks for them.
The rest of the day is a blur of Lassi Walla, more shopping, and another completely insane tuk tuk ride and a huge group dinner then back to the hotel.
The group is a bit worn down from yesterday’s bus ride and apprehension of having to take it back to Delhi again tomorrow.
We also have not had an organized yoga class in a few days. Delays and space have not allowed. It is starting to show on us group of physical asana junkies. This group of yogis is practicing another kind of yoga involving extreme patience, surrender to what ‘is’, and attitude in action. It’s way harder than handstands and backbends!
Tomorrow … Jaipur- Delhi- Varanasi. Bring it!!
God bless the elephants, please. Thank you.

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:Jaipur

Big Picture Attitude


Feb 19
Today we board the bus for a five hour drive from Delhi to Jaipur which ends up taking 10 hours. Needless to say we are wiped out and a bit disappointed mostly for having missed a day to see The beautiful palaces and vibrant street bazaars here. Not much you can do about good old fashioned heinous traffic. Good thing we are all yogis who practice keeping good attitudes. Despite the major delay we do visit a small textile factory where we watch craftsmen make rugs followed by some retail therapy. In addition to hand woven rugs there are exquisite silks, the softest pashmina, and so much more. Beautiful things galore. It’s hard to not go overboard. Tonight I sleep in Rajasthan. The big picture is wonderful. More from here tomorrow.

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:Jaipur

Beauty and Toilets


Feb18
After last nights intense walk, most of the group is feeling a bit worked as we arrive on our yoga mats at 7:30am. It doesn’t take Desiree long to get us deep into the body, guiding us skillfully to open up for big fun energetic backbends. How quickly the contrast occurs! Although seemingly a big challenge for how we feel at the start, it is THE perfect thing to get us in the right frame of body for a very long day of travel.
Today is the midway point of the trip. The day we travel from South India to the North. Five people have left to go home and tomorrow we gain eight new members to the group.
The drive from Tiruvannamali to Chennai is four hours. On the road we stop at a gas station to use the restroom. The good news is that there is a choice between a squat toilet (the hole in the floor–which I have had to use once on the trip so far) and a commode toilet. Our guide recommends I use the commode as it is much nicer. Let me backtrack to the fact the standard of clean in Indian public toilet is far different from what I am used to and that in most Indian toilets there is no toilet paper. For this I am prepared. Public toilets anywhere can be rough. And I have deffo encountered some doozies here. Bavk to the gas station stop. A fact of life is, despite the condition of the facility, when you gotta go, you really have no choice but to ‘go with gratitude’. What amazes me is I see Esther, our guide, emerge elegantly and smiling from the humble squat toilet, mind you dressed in full gorgeous silk sari. She wasn’t all crinkle face, running desperately out of the stall, holding her nose complaining of the nastiness. Just another example of the lotus rising from the mud. A little bit later out of the window of the bus i saw a dirt hauling truck painted with beautiful vibrant images of birds and pretty flowers. Another theme of India… beauty in the dirt. Living harmoniously side by side. India doesn’t pretend to be perfect. What you see is what you get. India does not hide her dark side. India embraces the stark contrast of it all seemingly with no shame. Not that I want to downgrade my toilet standards, but this is a great lesson to take home.
We have just landed in Delhi, supposedly one of the dirtiest places of all – where the lesson is sure to be of help. More to come from the North…

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:India

In The Current


Feb 17
Sunrise over Arunachala is the backdrop for rooftop morning asana. The group needs a more mellow stretching practice. So Desiree delivers a sweet mix of hip openers, and hamstring stretches and a nice long savasana. Good prep for a day of activity and lots of sitting.
After yoga I head back to Ramana Maharshi Ashram in an auto rickshaw with Michele and chanteuse. Betty Roi. We missed bookstore hours yesterday and also want to sit in the meditation hall for a little while. Mala bead shopping and chai tea follow. We LOVE India!
In the afternoon we attend satsang with a wise man named Mooji. From our brief visit my take on him is that he is interested in illuminating the sameness and unifying forces amongst people and practices, not the differences that separate. I am way into this. He talks a while about big questions in life like ‘what is my purpose’, ‘who am I’… It always comes back to the essence of our embodiment is unchanging forever present divine nature and our bodies and minds are temporal. We sit for meditation again, this time led by Mooji. Very peaceful. A real blessed experience.
Oh, did I mention it’s full moon? Every month on the full moon hundreds of thousands of people pilgrimage here to walk around the base of the mountain which is about 9 miles. Michele and I set out for the adventure. We are DEEP in the culture here. There are very few Westerners.The people and the energy are a massive current and we simply step into it and go with the flow. This is the definition of Anusara. And we are in it tonight! Words and photographs just can’t capture the experience. The paradox is that between the two of us, walking together for nearly 6 miles for 2 and a half hours in this river of Hindu men and women in a devotion to Shiva as an expression of Mt Arunachala, Michele an I have quite different impressions of the walk and we talk about it afterwards. This doesn’t surprise me in the least and also takes me back to Anusara. We all adhere to the same Principles of Alignment and to the templates of the teaching methods yet, every teacher does and should have a unique presentation of the material. As well, each student digests the info individually which manifests as varied because we are experiencing with the body and mind. What is the same is this: the essence of our being, the divine light within has the same experience of union and oneness with all of these amazing friendly souls. Although at times the energy is frenetic and ecstatic, completely foreign, and admittedly out of my comfort zone, I feel safe and protected by the light that I share with every person– whether in Fairhope, Alabama or Tirunavalai Tamil Nadu India.
It is our last night in the South. A night whose energy will, on some level always be with me. The insane rickshaw drive home is the subject of another story some other time–holy cow!
– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:South India

Holy Hospitality



Feb 16
One of Desiree’s friends has died unexpectedly. Some of the group know him. So the morning asana class begins with a dedication to him which once again brings us into the recognition of the preciousness of the present moment. In asana yoga we talk a lot about the back body representing universal consciousness (the front body, the ego consciousness or ‘I am-ness’). We also work constantly on expanding and breathing into the back body which cultivates spaciousness freedom and courage in the body and in asana. This is helpful for challenging asana and life situations alike. When we courageously expand into unknown places we evolve physically, mentally, and spiritually. So today our practice is hip openers and arm balances. Lighting up dark the dark and unknown halls of the inner body.
Our cultural foray is to Arunachalaleswar Temple, one of the largest in all of India, dedicated to Shiva. You’ve really git to see it to even be able to begin to comprehend the magnitude and the ecstatic and holy energy that saturate the air and people. After a couple of hours there is a visit to the Ramana Maharshi ashram, home to one of the most highly revered gurus in the modern history of India. It is an enormous privilege to be in these holy places and to feel welcome to take part in and/or observe the rituals of the devotees beliefs. Sitting in meditation in the back of the hall at the ashram while the residents did evening prayer chants takes me deep into my heart center. I am overwhelmed with gratitude for the hospitality of holy folk who let us in to their worlds of worship. When we trust in the Spirit and breath into the unknown, we evolve we expand we understand more we feel connected to all of humanity. Fear subsides and compassion blossoms. Can’t really ask for much more than that. And then there is the best chai tea in the whole world…om namah shivaya.

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:Tiruvannamalai

Spirited Pondy

Feb15
In Pondicherry a beach town on the Bay of Bengal. Morning yoga practice of standing poses, backbends, handstands, and core work prepare body mind and spirit for another full day. India is super intense and saturated with heightened energy–kind of like asana with Desiree! I love every minute of it even though ( and probably) because its majorly challenging.
Early day sight seeing…first stop is Sacred Heart Church. A brief stop at THE Gandhi statue. A few blocks away is a short meditation at Sri Aurobindo Ashram then a visit to the huge Ganesh temple where an elephant stands outside to greet the throngs of worshipers. I feel most at home in the Catholic church. And today is no different. Upon entering I immediately drop into a place deep in my heart that is familiar and nurturing. In this Catholic house I love seeing the devotion of the Indian women in full sari. At the other Holy Houses I feel like a welcome visitor. We are all doing the same thing. All of us dropping into our hearts and connecting with our chosen and best understood expression of God, Divinity, Nature, Spirit…we are all one.
Second half of the day is spent shopping which is actually necessary as I have only one shirt which is completely tired and super dirty. Shopping here is the Bomb! Beautiful inexpensive colorful cottons and silks. Finally some color. My fashion homage to Johnny Cash is not cutting it in this hot vibrant French Indian beach town. I already can’t wait to come back here next year. For now, Sleep awaits…

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:Pondicherry India

Heart Day

Feb 14



Valentine’s Day (also Michelle’s 40th birthday!) in Chennai/Madras. A half day of yoga study at the Krishnamacharya Yoga Mandiram involves Vedic chanting, Classical Yoga philosophy, meditation, pranayama, and asana. I am a student of the Krishnamacharya lineage. He is the ultimate teacher of teachers. To study this subject matter that is so dear to my heart this close to the source makes me beyond happy. It is a real learning institute. I’d love to stay a couple of days and attend a few more classes, But we are on a mission to get to Pondicherry by the evening. On the way to Pondi we stop in Mahabalipuram to tour ancient Hindu temples chiseled out of enormous boulders. The size of the temples, the incredible craftmanship of the carvings, and the stories they depict are mind blowing. There is also the element of monkeys, goats, and dogs running around everywhere which adds kind of a wild vibe to it all. The Shore Temple (in the photo) which contains shrines to Shiva and Vishnu is the last one we see. It is on a beach on the Bay of Bengal and apparently so am I! Wow! The azure blue sky and the ocean breeze remind me of home and family. I miss them! They are so encouraging of my studying and practicing yoga. Without their support I wouldn’t be in this amazing spot today. 10,000 miles away from home as I delve deeper into the history and origins of the vast yoga, I listen within and I can feel their hearts beat in mine. On this Love-ly day I know we are all swimming in the Ocean of the Heart together forever. Which does not make me miss them any less, only love them that much more.

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:Tamil Nadu India

All Consuming India



Feb 13
A winding couple hours drive downhill through spiced hills, rubber tree forests, and small towns takes us to the Chennai airport. It’s hot! Wrangling a group of 30 American yogi tourists is a sight to behold. Our guides from Redback travel do an outstanding job. I feel well taken care of. One hour 40 minute flight to Chennai ( formerly Madras). Another cool thing about India–airplane food Is tasty!
On the ground, Dealing with baggage claim, finding and boarding the bus is not a nightmare but its not easy either. My suitcase is small and I’m psyched about it. Also super thankful for my comfy old running shoes and for the months of physical and dietary prep (lots of vinyasa yoga and daily keifer smoothies) that have made me strong and ‘gutsy’ enough to travel in this capacity. Keifer lines the intestines with good bacteria that ward off the intestinal/ bacterial disorders that plague so many international travelers. Knock on wood, right?
The Raj Park hotel is nice. There is no real city center here. Chennai’s population is around 7 million. A few random things I notice on the streets… Not much manicured landscaping of buildings or apartments. Families of three riding a moped together is a common sight. And I love the women in beautiful silk sari riding moped side saddle!
Our hotel is Eco- smart maybe just from a place of Indian practicality than anything else. Americans would do well to follow suit in some of these things..Upon entering the hotel room, there is a slot in which to place the (card) key. For the electricity in the room to power on (a/c included) the key must be in that slot. This ensures that electricity is not wasted when we go out. There is a timer on the a/c so that it will not run for days on end. And there are solar panels on the roof of the hotel. India eco is smart and makes cent$
Great dinner at an all vegetarian popular Indian franchise restaurant Saravana Bhavan. We are the sole Westerners in the packed hustling eatery. It’s totally the real deal. Savory dals, rotis, masalas, dipping sauces, samosas, and the best chai tea! Fennel seeds at the very end act as a breath freshener and digestive. I am completely satisfied.
Back at Raj park – I do my laundry in the sink and it is hanging all over the room drying. This hotel has a superb shower and the water is hot. It is only the 2nd hot shower of the trip. They don’t tell you that in Lonely Planet 🙂
The intensity of travel in India requires total surrender to the given circumstances. Mindfulness to stay safe and healthy. Patience with what ‘is’ in this moment. And utter compassion for all of humankind. It requires a balance of strength and flexibility of body mind and spirit. A letting go of preconceived ideas of how situations should progress. And the ability to find spaciousness, peace, and quiet in the inner realm. This is yoga. This is why I am here. Om.

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:Chennai aka Madras

Instrument Of Peace



Feb 12
7am morning yoga up on this mountain starts out as a blustery practice. The theme: be instruments of the wind. This practice makes us more flexible and adaptable and more I’m harmony with nature even when its crazy windy. So instead of trying to always ‘fix’ external circumstances we have the opportunity to turn the challenges into beautiful harmonious music. The wind is wild, strong, cleansing and also can be fun! Just like todays asana sequence which leads to dropping back into backbends from standing and from headstand. Working with Michelle Baker in the partner work is an extra special treat. We can take all of this new asana information home to our communities!
Mid day appointments at the Ayurvedic Center entails a drive through the hills and valley which is totally rainforest. I am so grateful for the gift of balancing my energies that Ayurvedic work provides, which i need today. The clinic is founded And run by the local Catholic Archdiocese. How cool is that?!??! The Catholic church is very prevalent here. The taxi driver has named his car Mary Rosary. There is a Sacred Heart poster in the Ayurvedic pharmacy. I LOVE it!!
More asana late in the day working on shoulders and twists. Although no longer windy like this morning, the lesson continues to help me find harmony with some of the challenges of this big group travel scenario.
It’s an absolute blessing to be here but the heavily planned schedule and group dynamic can be intense. So now it is time to take the lesson off the mat… I must find harmony with the people who are most challenging to be around. I have to figure out how the challenging person can help me unveil my highest self and not the opposite which is the tendency for me and most of us. This is tricky sometimes but always comes back to the beautiful melody of compassion. It is the same compassion the Ayurvedic treatment woman showed to me as I entered her room, her 4th or 5th patient of the day. It’s not The challenges, but how we respond to them and work through them that are the mark of our innate wisdom. A couple of songs from different ‘churches’ come to mind… Make me an instrument of peace… Or even better…the answer my friend is blowing in the wind. Peace from India.

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:Paradisa

Dreaming For Certain



Feb 11
Surya Namaskar (sun salutation) has taken on a whole new meaning. Watching and breathing with the orange glow of the sun breaking through the palm lined horizon from the bow of the Kettuvallum is the most sensory rich morning meditation of my life. Everything comes alive as if in celebration of another day to be a reflection of the divinity within. How did I get here? Is it a wonderful dream?
Apparently it gets even better. A four hour winding drive where we gain 2500 feet of elevation takes us to our next stop. A few folks are very motion sick. I too am feeling slightly off but not nauseous, thank goodness.
Our destination is Paradisa Plantation Retreat in the Cardamom Hills of Kerala. It is set on a working organic tea, spice, and COFFEE plantation. Did I mention there are fields of coffee surrounding us as we practice asana yoga? OOOOMMMMGGGG!!!!!!!
A deep hip opening and arm balance practice is just the right thing for the post long van ride. Since this is the ayurvedic treatment portion of the trip, Our theme today is to allow ourselves to receive inner body massage. So we find the alignment of the bones and hold that with the embrace of the muscles and wait for the organs to move into more optimal spaciousness for more efficient functioning. Its not a practice of grasping for poses, rather an opportunity for the bones, muscles, and organs to come back into the natural architecture of the body. This embodiment is brilliant, spacious, efficient, grounded, and a balanced pulsation of giving (doing) and receiving (being). Tonights practice is breakthrough upon breakthrough for me in asana (poses) I have never been able to ‘do’ . Desiree is an extraordinary teacher of the Anusara method which teaches the innate pulsation of everything in the universe: stability & freedom, effort & ease, rooting & rising, hard & soft etc.
I now turn in under a moon illuminating a fragrant landscape and know for certain the sun will rise again tomorrow on a dream that is for certain.

– YogiPod posting from India using iPhone

Location:Paradisa